Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Beijing - Times Three - Pt 1

"And I shall call my snake, Harvey" - Eric Lindenberg - 6/14/2009
 Friday, June 26, 2009
And no... its not what you think.

This time Beijing is HOT!! I arrived on a Tuesday evening on an Air Canada flight direct from Toronto. What a difference being up in the air for only 12 hours makes. The time almost flies. It was an excellent flight, and very comfortable, and the food was actually quite good! It says a lot about me when I can call airline food good. However, the movies were still the same, and I decided to spend my time watching 'A Night at the Museum' - pretty funny movie.

It was a typical evening. I got to the hotel thankfully missing all the rush-hour traffic. Change, a quick shower, and I was ready to go have some food on the Club Lounge. I took my laptop up with me, and while munching on some food, and a cold glass of Bailey’s Eric appeared. He’d been on vacation, the lucky so-and-so and was all tanned and his hair even looked lighter!

The past few weeks had been a stressful one for me; unfortunately I decided to take it out on Eric. No, I did not yell at him, because Eric makes it very hard for anyone to yell at him. But I did get my point across and he understood my angst pretty well. The next two days went by in typical Beijing fashion.

However, on Saturday, after a late lunch, we decided to head to the Electronics Market. We’d passed the place quite often on our way to the office – never realizing that this was THE Electronics market. I was going to browse and pick up something for my nephew, so was Eric. We walked into the usual cacophony of vendors wanting to sell us everything from cameras, computers, flash drives, lenses, PS3s, you name it – if it’s electronic – you can find it there. But how much of it was real and how much... fake? We didn’t know. After going up and down the escalators to every floor, we decided that Eric needed a camera. A Chinese girl in broken English offered to show us some more stuff. Now this building is 17 stories high and we had only seen about 7 of them. The rest of the floors were not accessible by escalator. At the top floor we had noticed a restaurant and people coming out of it with packages in their arms. ‘There must be something there’ Eric said. I just dismissed it as people having lunch and heading down. But now this Chinese girl beckoned us into an elevator tucked into the back of the floor.

We followed her onto it and were whisked away to a higher floor. The floor plan was open with tables set around the floor. There were groups of people at some of the tables, and this we discovered, was the bargaining area. The serious bargaining area. We were looking for a DSLR camera for Eric. I thought he should get a Cannon Rebel EOS. A Chinese gentleman sat down across from us and the bargaining began. Now Eric quite fancies himself as the bargainer. The man quoted us 36,000 RMB for the camera body. I wanted a different one. We scribbled on paper to decide on the model. Then came the price. Eric wrote 250. The man looked at it and went – 250 Dollar? No, said Eric, RMB. He looked so affronted it was hilarious. Then he got up and pointed at the door. ‘You go, now! You are joking.’ And that was my first experience of getting thrown out of a store. We left in hysterics. This was too funny. We finally left the store after buying a small WII steering wheel.

That night I got a call I had been waiting for. My best friend, since sixth grade was married to Titu. Titu incidentally was in China, and was supposed to be in Beijing over that week. He called me on Saturday evening. We planned to meet up the next morning at 10 after breakfast.

The next day, I asked Eric and Allan – another of our colleagues - if they wanted to go to the Temple of Heaven with Titu and I. We met up at 10 in the lobby. Having Allan along was a huge plus. He is Chinese, from north of Beijing, though he lives in Canada now. But he speaks Mandarin. No more pointing to the menu and little cards for cabs. Allan told the driver where we wanted to go (though the night before I found out that the Temple of Heaven is called Tien Tan in Chinese – so I could have said ‘chyow tien tan’ to go there!)

I met Titu in the lobby and we hit it off really well. I hadn’t really conversed with him before. And I could see why Sam would have liked him so much. He is a complete hoot to be with. We set off for the Temple of Heaven, bought our tickets and started walking into the complex. It’s a huge park-like place. The emperor would come here to offer prayers. The whole complex would be closed off and the emperor would pray to the Gods for the rains or harvest or whatever. Sacrifices of animals would be offered and huge firewood burning stoves would be used to burn all wood and everything used in the sacrifices. Somehow I never thought of the Chinese of being pantheistic; or as having any other gods than Buddha. But it seems that they did pray to different gods! But there are no pictures or deities of the gods; just the intricately carved, richly painted interiors of the temples and the five vessels in front of each of the altars signifying the five elements: earth, water, fire, air, and space. The whole complex is surrounded by lush gardens, and we realized that this was a place that people often came for picnics. And the flowers – Beijing in summer is a city of flowers. There were flowerbeds completely covered in flowers of all colors. Just gorgeous. It was a gorgeous day, hot, clear skies with a hint of smog only. Lovely!

As we walked through the tree lined paths, the cupola of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest was visible between the two lines of trees. The North Celestial gate towered over us. A group of Chinese musicians were singing some song and playing some really strange instrument. I took a video of it, and I have not uploaded it yet. But the rest of the pictures are here


http://picasaweb.google.com/madhumita.routh/BeijingTempleOfHeavenMadhuSPics?feat=directlink

We walked through the gates and I realized that while the Forbidden City was all about squares, the temple of Heaven is all about circles. There were terraces that led up to each of the temples. All of them were built along a central meridian. Each of the temples are circular, the terraces are circular. All the roofs are a dark blue (religious significance?) and gold – signifying royal. Inside the temple all the pillars are painted rich red background with glittering gold paint. There is richness here, and a sense of pomp and grandeur. Maybe this place is just better maintained. We walked to the next temple – The Imperial Vault of Heaven. Surrounding this one is a wall. If you stand on the meridian facing the altar and clap – it echoes. The wall is quite appropriately called the Echo Wall. The strange thing is if you stand on the first stone – it echoes once, on the second stone, it echoes twice. I went up to three… because there were people all standing around trying to get on those stones and clap.

A woman caught my eye. She was dressed in the colourful traditional costume of her South East or west Province. I followed her around taking a few shots. She stopped and gave me a pose – quite without realizing it.

Following our nose Southward, we came to the Circular Mound Altar. This is a flat terraced circular mound! And in the center was a little mound. We all stood on it and took pics – but of course. We are such tourists!

Leaving the temples behind, we started walking towards the gardens hoping to reach the gates. The shady trees making walking easy, but I realized we’d probably walked a couple of miles easily if not more. We sat for a while in a little area to rest my back that was uneasily painful by now. Then we walked on and on, until we came to a gate and finally outside. We hailed a cab, and came back to the hotel.

Eric and Allan decided they wanted to go for full body massages. I wanted to download my pictures and just spend some time with Titu – actually getting to know him a little. So we went up to my room, and spent a pleasant few hours chatting. Around 6 we went up to the club floor. There over drinks, Eric proceeded to explain what body massage is in China. I will leave that explanation for my next note. I promise you its R-rated!

Dinner was going to be at the Hot pot restaurant that Eric and I had found. We walked over to the restaurant. Having Allan around is fun, because he can speak the language, and takes away the pain of pointing to items on restaurant menus when we want food. Eric and he consulted over the menu. Eric wanted snake. UGH!!! I wanted fried rice. Everything else was optional. When we ordered the snake, they said they would bring the snake out for us to see. And so they did. A big, fat snake coiled in a translucent bag. Ewwww… At which point Eric said, “And I shall name my snake, Harvey”. The double-meaning on that one cracked me up. Stupid snake jokes followed – like why Harvey? Why name your SNAKE Harvey? Does he feel like a HARVEY? And so on and so forth. So dinner came, and we tucked in. Hot, Hot Hunan cuisine. Lovely! The donkey’s meat was so spicy; we kept pulling tissues out of the little dispenser placed conveniently on the table. We’d finished eating all the other food before they brought the snake out. It was a big platter – on the edge of which were the chunks of meat pieces. In the center was a mound of dried red chillies. I could not even look at it. In my head I could see the split vertebrae of the snake’s skeleton. But the guys tucked in licking their chops and wiping their faces.

Dinner over, I had to call it a day. I needed to provide Eric some information, and so while he and Allan and Titu took off to the Olympic park, I went back to the hotel to work!

Thus it ended, an absolutely wonderful weekend with a little touch of home. Tomorrow was another day. Kevin was due back in town this week. It would be his last trip to China as he wrapped up on the project. We had some fun planned.


In the Temple of Heaven


Beijing - Second Time Around - Pt 4

Girls' Day Out
 Friday, May 29, 2009 
This is my last weekend on this trip. Can't believe I've been here three weekends.. Way too long for a person to be in another country. I am homesick already.


This week I have Bob and Jane with me. Bob and Jane are great people to work with - sharp, fun, witty and totally over the top. Eric and Kevin - my other two friends have gone back to the US. Kevin left with a bad case of bronchitis, Eric - well I think Eric got some ear-chewing from me. Haven't heard back from him, though I have talked to Kevin since. He's on antibiotics and in the loving arms of his family... he'll be alright!

Bob decided to go solo this Saturday, so Jane and I met for a leisurely breakfast. We decided to go to the Summer Palace. This was one place I'd been told was a must-see. I was holding it back for my next trip, but then, what was I supposed to do all day? I was waiting on some production runs to happen in the afternoon. Figured I could take the morning off.

So Jane and I headed out to the Palace. It lies to the West of the city of Beijing and covers over 290 hectares and surrounds the Kunming Lake. The word Palace is a misnomer. The whole thing is what in the US/Canada would have been called a state park. Acres of land, with walks, and palaces and theaters and pagodas. We took a taxi to the Summer palace. Now, if you want to go sightseeing in Beijing, plan on reaching there by 8:30 am. It’s a lot less crowded. As we came up to the palace, we saw hordes of people - tourists, like us - headed towards the gate. A full access ticket costs about 60 RMB or $9-and-change, because certain parts require special tickets to enter. We bought the full-access tickets and moving along through the hordes of clicking tourists, Jane and I entered the park. We'd bought a map at the ticket counter too. It was an artistic map that marked all the different palaces and temples and bridges, painted in the light, delicate brush strokes of Chinese artwork. All the names were poetic and a little 'fumbly' - they don’t flow fluently off the tongue. If you go to the numerous pictures of the summer palace on the web, you will see that the whole area is architected to blend in with the lush, rolling landscape. There are tree-covered hills, and long covered corridors, and pavilions and temples rising majestically over them all.

The first place we wanted to visit was the palace of Happiness and Longevity. As we entered the courtyard, Jane explained to me what those curious door stops meant - it was to stop the goblins from entering, because they couldn’t bend their knees! – I thought it was to stop anyone from rushing the emperor… hmmm…live and learn. The palace of Happiness and Longevity contains the Grand Theatre. The theatre is a central building surrounded by a courtyard, surrounding which were the “inner” apartments. The central building itself is three stories high. The theatre itself is dim and gloomy, even a little musty. Even with a high quality DSLR, I couldn’t get good pictures, until I turned on the flash, and had my back to the light. We wandered into the main apartments. A rich bed covered in a silk spread faced the stage. Behind it was a gorgeous yellow hand-painted silk screen. I took a picture of Jane as she entered, quite failing to see the “No Photo” sigh on the bed. This room was gorgeous, with intricately carved partitions, and mirrors. I took a picture, and then not quite satisfied with it, I deleted it. Big Mistake. As I aimed for the next shot, I heard a voice behind me go, “No photos” – blech.. Now I didn’t even have a half-satisfactory shot of it. The camera hung from my neck as we went around a highly carved wooden screen. Holding it at my waist, keeping the flash off, I clicked. And go one of the best pictures I could have. It was beautiful!

Check out the pictures from my trip to the Summer Palace at
http://picasaweb.google.com/madhumita.routh/BeijingSummerPalaceMadhuSPics#

Something struck me as we wandered around. There is a sameness to the architecture of these ancient palaces and forts and cities. They all tend to look the same after a while. While the intricate details hold meaning, it still ends up looking the same. We saw some fabulous pottery and some very tacky ones. But you know what? Despite the way these places are decorated - despite the use of lush fabrics like silk and satin; and the intricate detail of each artistic brush stroke or carving - there seems to be a distinct lack of sensuality to it all. There is almost an austerity and strictness to it, that is... cold! I don't know, maybe its just me. Its beautiful, but there is a frigidity, an iciness to this beauty. There is no sense of debauchery or over-indulgence that one would associate with royalty and nobility in most cultures. Compare it to the sculpture of Khajuraho and you will know what I mean.

And one more thing – while wandering around the Forbidden City both Eric and Kevin told me essentially the same thing – I would have gone mad if I had been living in that time and place. Those constrictions would have killed me. Jane and I both agreed, that if we had to live that life – yes, we would have gone mad for sure.

Wandering out, we followed the map to the Tempe of the Fragrance of the Buddha. We went through a doorway, and in front of us was the long corridor.

Okay, yes, it IS called the Long Corridor. An awning covered long walk to protect the people from the elements. Intricate wood carvings on the roofs, and two pagoda style gazebos marked this walk. To our left lay Lake Kunming. It was a leisurely stroll through the hot summer day. We decided to walk beside the corridor instead of inside it – just too many tourists with too many bullhorns! The lake was beautiful, and the tall trees afforded some welcome shade in the hot humid weather, as the day was horrendously smoggy. There were all kinds of boats on the lake. In the distance was the 17-arch bridge, and it connected the mainland to the South Island. I decided it was time to bring out the zoom lenses. So Jane and I sat down by the corridor, as so many people were doing, while I pulled the big lenses out. Switching lenses, I walked over to the parapet, and took a few snaps. A group of tourists were sitting on the corridor railings right above Jane. They were surprised to see a ‘foreigner’ with as big a camera as mine was. See, mostly it’s the Chinese and the Japanese that have these big-ass cameras (Eric… this one is for you). The tour guide asked Jane in broken English where we were from and so a small conversation started. We started to leave and someone said, ‘I love you!’ to Jane. It cracked us up. I took a photo of them for Jane and posterity.

We followed the crowds until we reached the entrance to the Temple of the Fragrance of the Buddha. It is said the Empress Cixi would offer prayers at this temple. Once again, we needed to present our tickets for access. Which would mean a lot fewer crowds. The Temple rises high into the hill-side and a veritable complex is around it. Stairs led up to the base of the temple – lots of stairs. I was worried that I would not make it. Jane of course, works out daily as a rule, so she is much better shape than I am. We started up the stairs. They are shorter than regular stairs and I found that I could easily walk up them. 2, 3, 4 stories high and we reached the base of the temple. There were still more stairs to climb, forming a pattern that is visible from afar – as we saw later. Taking a breather, we started up the next set of stairs. It was easier this time around. We climbed to the top, Jane encouraging me for the last few yards. Then before us was a vista that was Beijing to the left and mountains to the right. Gorgeous. We walked into the temple. Its octagonal shape invites you to walk around. Inside was a 12’ tall Buddha – called the Buddha with a 1000 arms. The head was almost like a Trimurti – except there were 12 heads, in four levels and 12 pairs of arms. Thought the hands do not hold any artifact – the Vishnu-like aspect of this Buddha was not lost on me. People walked in and prayed. It was almost like being in a Hindu temple! No pictures allowed here either, although we could take pics from the corridor outside. So we did.

Then we climbed back down taking the other set of stairs. Outside I was feeling de-hydrated, and we found some vendors selling water. A cold bottle of water, and we were on our way to our boat ride. We found one that went to South Island and back, and 15 minutes on the water cooled us down.

As we headed back out of the Summer Palace, we decided to go to Silk Market. I still needed to shop for gifts.

Silk Market was all I remembered it to be, the usual haggling for stuff, and asking for outrageously low prices was fun and soon loaded down with purchases, we stepped out for some food. We didn’t have margaritas this time. But we found a place that did some excellent burgers – an ‘Australian’ place! Then it was back to the hotel. I had needed a shower, and I was burned and tanned. Ah yes, we Indians DO tan – and I have the tan lines to prove it! Besides I had to pack. I had a plane to catch the next day. I was finally homeward bound. 



The temple of the Fragrance of the Buddha from Kunming Lake


Beijing - Second Time Around - Pt 3


Beijing Times Two: "The closer you get, the bigger it gets" - Eric Lindenberg, May 10th, 2009
 Friday, May 15, 2009

I will explain that quote in a minute.

Saturday night - we'd done our favourite thing - Peking Duck at the Made in China! For me this will be the essence of my Chinese trips. 
But first I need to find my way to the Mutianyu Great Wall of China. Sunday dawned a little muggy. Saturday night we had decided to meet for breakfast at 6:30 and head to the Great Wall by 7:00 am. Having been to the Badaling section of the Great wall before, Kevin wanted to start out early to beat the hordes of tourists we knew would be on their way to see the wall. So at 7:00 am fortified with breakfast and take away cups of coffee, Eric, Kevin and I headed to the Great wall. The concierge negotiated a cab for us, that would take us there, and stay there until we finished and bring us back to the hotel.

The ride was beautiful. As soon as we left Beijing behind, we were in farmland. Trains, a few cars, little towns that strangely reminded me of little towns in India - we passed through all of them.

Me at the start of the Great Wall at Mutianyu.
































Beijing - Second Time Around - Pt 2

Beijing Times Two: No speak English!!
Sunday May 10th, 2009


Today was the first time we had some downtime in our project. At least some of us did. We're moving to Production this week, and several tasks have to be completed before we can start running our stuff. Meantime, what do we do? Why, go sightseeing of course.

When I first came on this project, Kevin had promised to show me around Beijing. We met for breakfast - Kevin, Eric and I - and were planning out our day. Eric had to work, so that left the two of us to our own devices. Kevin proposed going to Tianenmen Square and the Forbidden city and then some quality shopping time at the Silk Street market. Of course I jumped at the chance. Soon we were on our way. The day was not very hot, and a cool breeze was springing up. The taxi drive to the Tienanmen Square was uneventful. I could not get over how different the architecture is here in Beijing as compared to the US or Canada. I found that I had to take a few pictures of the streets and then of course, I had to take pictures of buses and so on...

This time I brought along with me my DSLR baby. Its a Sony Alpha 100 that I had bought about two years ago, and came with 2 lenses - a 35-70 and a 75-300 zoom. In addition I had two more lenses that I used to use with my old Minolta 300si. The downside is I have to carry it in a very big bag. I'd already tested out the battery with some shots outside my hotel room. They came out good. I was good to go!

Tienanmen Square is a HUGE place. Flat. Flagged. A cenotaph stands at one corner. And it faces the Forbidden City/Imperial Gardens. Hordes of tourists were everywhere. And there were the usual mob of people trying to sell you anything from fake Olympic medals to statuettes to "art" to ... you get the picture. I was so at home! Crossing the street was like crossing a street in India. Chaotic. And then the mob of hawkers - 'You go to Great Wall?' 'You need guide? I speak English'. ' I show you Forbidden city?' I advised Kevin to not make eye contact with these people and be completely unresponsive. With his height it should be easy. But Kevin is an easy-going guy. He did respond, and I usually had to keep walking to make him come along with me. 'You want hat?' Of course, I wanted hat! I had to have a hat. So I turned around. A middle-aged Chinese woman was holding out a bunch of baseball hats. 'Duo zhou chen?' I asked her 'How much yuan?' 'Fifty' she replied..Hmmm... about 8 USD! Nah.. I held up my right hand with the index finger crossed over the middle finger - Chinese sign for 10. 'Ten yuan'. She looked disheartened.. I upped it to Fifteen - Deal!! Yes!! My first bargain in China.. A baseball hat for less that two dollars, red with the word Beijing on it! I was such a tourist!

We clicked pictures and walked across the massive courtyard headed to the Forbidden city. A giant portrait of Chairman Mao stared at us across the square from the walls of the forbidden city. What a feeling it must have been to see 6,000,000 people crammed into the square as he declared the Republic of China. Pretty mind-boggling.

To get to the forbidden city, one has to go underground and then come up. I held on to Kevin's arm because the crowd was scaring me a little, and I didn't want to get separated from him. All of a sudden he turns to me and says 'Did you see that?' 'What?' I asked. A prostitute had evidently propositioned him! WOW!! and him with a girl on his arm. These women were BRAZEN with brass cojones!!

The Forbidden city spreads out like a humongous maze. Courtyard after courtyard, golden tiled roofs, flagged floors, thrones, dragons, ... and lions. The predominant colors were red and gold and green and blue. Everywhere. It was a sight to behold. And people milling around. Packs of baseball hatted tourists following their tour guides holding up little blue, green, red, or yellow flags, like a sea of lemmings. But the romance of the place got to me. I walked into one of the courtyards. Down the center of the yard, was a path that only the emperor or the empress would have walked. I walked down arms spread, eyes closed. I could soooo be an empress. The courtyards had been restored around the central walkways, but off to the side there were still bricks from centuries ago. I could imagine thousands of soldiers kneeling there as their emperor walked down the central flags of stone. The romance of the place was getting to me. Kevin had been there before, and he told me little anecdotes about each of the courtyards, and which were the best places to see the certain things, like thrones and rooms. A huge slope from the final doors was carved intricately with dragons and all sorts of symbols. Around the main courtyards were the inner rooms and courtyards. And these led to little cul-de-sacs. Each doorway had a wooden bar at the bottom, sometimes with a step on the outside. I wondered if they were to stop anybody rushing the emperor. You could hurt yourself falling down those stairs. The rooms had artifacts around them that depicted life during the times of the longest line of emperors in the world. We wandered around, admiring the incredible details on the roofs, and the walls. Great big read doors, set with golden knobs opened out into yet another courtyard. The were huge copper vats, painted with gold that gathered rain water. People were touching the heads of the dragons on those vats. We took pictures of each of us doing the same. Wonder if it brought luck? Then we wandered into the gardens at the back. There were trees that grew gnarled and old twined into each other. One tree had been grafted into another. The paving on the paths had intricate designs mosaics. I couldn't stop clicking.

See my pics at 
http://picasaweb.google.com/madhumita.routh/BeijingForbiddenCity#

We spent a few hours there, and then decided to head out. We came out at the back of the Forbidden City. Immediately we were accosted by throngs of just about everybody selling everything. It was frightening and not to mention, hilarious. I held on to Kevin's arm and said, keep walking, eyes forward, do not respond. I was holding his right arm feeling that I had to protect him from all this mayhem! It was definitely like being in India - except the jabbering was all in either Chinese or heavily accented English. Suddenly, this woman rushed out of nowhere trying to push me away. I responded with a well-placed elbow in her mid-riff. We wanted to go the Silk Street Market, and no cab was willing to go. We walked along. Suddenly another guy appears out of nowhere, offering to show us the Great Wall. I got very annoyed. This was worse than it is in India. At which point I had a brain-wave. I turned around and yelled at him - abbey, chaltna hai ki nahin? Kab se dimag khaye jaa raha hai.. teri ma-ki to.. -- which roughly translated meant get the hell lost! He looked at me and said 'I dont understand you'. to which I turned around and said ' No speak English'. As soon as we turned the corner, we just cracked up... It was wayyyyy too funny. We had turned down a side street, lined with trees. We could see inside houses, life in China! and somehow I was reminded of Russell Street in Calcutta - just not so posh. We walked for a good fifteen minutes, till I spotted a taxi. We hailed it and then we were on our way to Silk Street. It really wasn't that close, was it, Kevin?

The taxi dropped us off at a busy crossing, and now we had this eight lane street to go across. There were no pedestrian crossings at that signal. But we noticed people gathering at the lights waiting to cross. So we waited along with them. It was a good ten minutes before the lights changed. We sprinted across the street. Kevin knew a little Mexican restaurant, and decided we were going to have lunch there. A big pitcher of margarita was starting to sound just about right. We walked down the tree-lined street and found the place. Enchiladas, tacos and Margaritas later, we crossed the street to enter the Silk street Market.

If you've been to New Market in Calcutta, you know the feeling. It's just spread across quite a few floors. Kevin needed something for his wife, and their neighbours. We were accosted by salespeople almost from the moment we stepped inside. As I said, Kevin is BIG and very American! So as soon as we stepped through the doors...we got MOBBED!! okay ..not quite mobbed, but definitely, a feeling of having to push your way through narrow corridors lined with stores and very very persistent hawkers. Each floor in the Silk Street Market usually sells different kinds of wares. We went downstairs to the luggage/bags level. We had a game plan. I would speak in Hindi, Kevin would be speaking gibberish, and we'd pretend that we'd come to a conclusion about whether we were buying or not. We were also looking for a specific "make" of bag. Remember - these are all knock-offs! The way you bargain in China is they will offer you something - typed on a calculator. You wipe it out, and type out your offer - I started at 10% of original price. As we walked down, one female asked me if I spoke English and turned around and went 'habla espanol?' well she just flipped into Spanish!! Imagine my surprise, as we quickly walked away. Finally we found a store that had the bags Kevin was looking for. The storekeeper was a little girl that came up to my ears. We found the bags and the haggling started. Kevin and I did our 'talking' in our incomprehensible languages - of course, that gave us some advantage because they didn't understand what we spoke about. This little thing, at point was poking Kevin in the chest going 'You big man...You killing me.. you give me very little money!' soooo funny. Minutes of bargaining later, we finally got three bags for 285 yuan.. very good!! I'd spotted a laptop wheelie that I wanted. Now was my time to bargain. She was asking for 2000+... we walked away with her yelling 200 yuan at us. Around a corridor and then a quick confab.. I really wanted the bag. It was pretty and for $30... not bad at all. We came back, and got it.

Up to the clothes department. We found a beautiful silk robe for his wife. The fabrics were just fabulous! I could see us making beautiful sarees or blouses out of them. The men's suit fabrics were also incredible. Of course, I am going back there next weekend. I hadn't shopped at all. But next week it would be Eric that would be there,and this I have to see. Eric can drive a very hard bargain. So I am looking forward to doing another round at the Silk market. But today, we felt vindicated. We walked out and got a cab. Back to the hotel.

Tomorrow - it was going to be the Great Wall at Mutianyu.