Friday, March 19, 2010

Florenceville, NB - Mukmuk goes to the land of Mi’Kmaq

January 11th, 2010

The very first time I came to Florenceville, New Brunswick, was in December of 2008. I was asked to go there to babysit our database server, while two consultants from the Big Blue ran PoC's with their software. 


New Brunswick is to the East of Maine. A small state that is the only official Bi-lingual state in Canada. It boasts of a small population, amazing fishing and is the home of the Mi'Kmaq natives. The New Brunswick countryside is an extension of the Appalachian range - so even though the mountains are not very high - it is still a rolling vista. 


I only knew I had to fly to Fredericton - the provincial capital, on the banks of the St John river. From there, rent a car and drive for about 140 km to reach Florenceville - home of one of the biggest producers of processed food in North America. Ah! how difficult could it be - the route was straight - get out the airport, hit the Trans Canada Highway and then hop off onto the RR-130. The hotel should be right around there. Mapquest don't lie. (oh yes, did I mention that this was in my pre-GPS days?).

The flight was delayed out of Toronto due to snow. Two hours later the sun was slowing heading towards sundown, when the plane swooped over what seemed to be a vast snowy field, liberally covered with evergreens that stuck out almost like in a picture post card. The plane landed on what seemed to be a vast sea of snow, the wind blowing little swirling dervishes  of snow, red gold in the last light of the sun. It was cold! So very Cold!! I walked out of the airport, into a blowing wind. The rental car was liberally covered in snow, but not that I could not drive it. I jumped in - a Pontiac G6 - and then my adventure began. The first few miles were breathtaking! But slowly the sun went down and I was driving in pitch black darkness. Once in a while, a car drove by, or I came up behind a truck. It wasn't snowing, but the wind from the truck tires blew the snow around, making it hard to see. I drove on for what seemed like hours! At some point, the directions fell off my seat onto the floor. I wasn't going to stop to pick them up. I kept driving. Feeling a little desperate at this point, I finally hit the OnStar button. A very polite lady informed me that I should only use the OnStar service for emergencies. Well, I said, I think I am lost. I am going to Florenceville, New Brunswick and I don't know if I have missed my exit or not. To me that constitutes an emergency. She put me on hold as she tracked me. You're fine, I was informed. You just have to travel a little further. Whew! Finally I hit the exit - at least I thought it was the right exit. Ahead of me was a brightly lit barn - and nothing much. A sign proudly informed me that I was at the Potato Museum! A museum for Potatoes!! WOW!! Of course, at this point I had no idea that Potatoes from Eastern Canada are some of the best! Who woulda thought?! But I digress.

The directions did not seem to make sense. I moved on and then started to despair. I had to cross a river somewhere, I knew - yet I did not see one. Finally, desperate - I called the hotel. A very kindly lady talked me through. She told me where to go, and a few minutes later I was across the bridge. Turn left, follow the signs to the highway, turn right at the top of the hill, go for a couple of kilometers and then you will see a blinking yellow light. The motel is on that corner. 

I faithfully followed her directions - the top of the hill was dark - far away a few dim lights flickered - but a few minutes later I spotted it - a blinking yellow light and next to it - the most beautiful sign in the world. A big MOTEL sign. Sigh!! I was finally at my destination. It wasn't the best of introductions to Florenceville. But then I did not expect the Hyatt either! And it so isn't the Hyatt!
* * * * * 
The next time I flew in on an earlier flight. It was my birthday, and not surprisingly everything went extremely well. I reached the airport early. There were long lines for checkin-s and security - but being a priority club member has its rewards. Oh yes! I found the Starbucks coffee shop, grabbed a chocolate au pain and headed back to the gate. Two of my other colleagues were also traveling with me. I met them there. The plane was a small Regional Air jet. The sky was partially cloudy, the flight was completely uneventful. Picked up our bags and headed out of the airport. I wasn't going to be driving this trip. I ensconced myself in the back and put my feet up. Then I had my camera out. The road winds out of Fredericton for 6 kms before it hits the Trans Canada Highway. I clicked away... Check out the pics.. 


In honor of the fact that it was not only my birthday, but my colleague's anniversary, the managers decided to take us out to dinner at the only fine dining restaurant in Florenceville-Bristol area. 


Let me explain first that eating out in Florenceville, presents several interesting challenges. For example - can you find something on the menu that is not fried? Or is a vegetable - other than corn, potatoes or onions? Healthy choices on the menu are few and far between - and fast food is relegated to the obligatory Subway and Tim Horton's - not even a Wendy's, a couple of pizza places and the pub. So finding someone that does food fresh in a remote out of the way location like this is amazing!


The restaurant is called 'Fresh'. It is owned by Sara - a petite brunette who doubles as the serving staff too. The chef's name is Jeff. The two of them cook up a menu that changes every so often, and use fresh and seasonal ingredients. Their aim - I think - is to provide a dining experience unlike anything you would get in that neck of the woods. Typical New Brunswick food (at least what we saw of it) is junk - fried, pizza, etc. Yet here was this little restaurant that aimed to provide haute cuisine at an extremely (for us Torontonians) reasonable price. 


The restaurant is in a couple of railway carriages, the station is the washroom. The dining room is the first carriage and the kitchen is the second. Heavy wood work, and equally heavy metal furnishings provide a cosy intimate ambiance. The wine is good, the food is excellent. It starts with an amuse bouche (a complimentary dish - usually provided by the chef), followed by an appetizer, a palate cleanser (complimentary) and an entree. And if you still have space in your tummy go for the gold - the dessert. I did - luscious chocolate ganache topped with a ceremonial candle in honor of the day I came to this earth. What I did not know then was that the best dish to order is the chef's special. 


Since then, I have been to Fresh a few times. The last time was this week. I was with my two colleagues Edgar and Ming. Ming has just returned from an exciting two weeks at the Vancouver 2010 Olympics and his souvenir is the mascot's sidekick - Mukmuk. He has now started to record his day or doings using Mukmuk as his mouthpiece. So of course, Mukmuk joined us for dinner. Edgar decided to go with the Chef's choice. Ming and I chose a la carte. Edgar's appetizer was amazingly good. And then his entree was even better - a cornucopia of seafood - mussels, scallops, shrimp and a halibut. I was jealous and told Sara that I wish I had ordered the chef's choice. To my amazement a few minutes later - the chef came out and placed a small dish of scallops for me. They were the most beautifully cooked melt-in-you-mouth scallops that I had ever tasted! 


And then there is Florenceville... with spring officially here, there is barely any snow left on the ground. The leaves have not yet blossomed on the trees. With longer daylight hours - I'm just happier now. And more than happy to be back home in the bright lights and sleep in my own bed! 


Its been a long week. Next week - off to Florenceville again. Wonder what it will bring for me, then!