India - Thoughts from the Land of my Birth - March 18th, 2009 12:43 pm

So I came to India with the idea that I could purchase a pre-paid cell phone. How expensive could it be? The exchange rate is good, I could use a good phone. At work my colleague took me to a phone seller. Yes, he could sell me a phone, but I needed a photo-id (no problem - I have my passport, my OCI card..) .... and a UTILITY BILL!!! What?! Of course, we tried telling him that I was only visiting for a few weeks, and needed the cell to be able to be in contact and for emergencies. But the man was adamant. This was quite a surprise for me. The fact that I was willing to shell out hard cash to get the phone I need, was not a factor at all. The man seemed genuinely sorry that he could not help me out - regulations were regulations - whatever happened to good old bribing? Evidently there is a new regulation that requires ALL cellphone users to be registered AND a background check made!

Finally, the Saturday after, I was able to get my nephews to purchase a phone for me. However, even after that there were issues. I though I was purchasing a phone, and the SIM card. At which point I thought I was done. But nooooooo.... then I had to buy time as well (did the activation not cover a standard starting credit? - evidently not!). I then added credit to my account. But then, two days later, I was getting SMS's - I couldn't continue with the phone because my papers had not reached? But my nephew had submitted all the papers - what could be the problem? I have no idea! But right now, all I can do is receive calls (free airtime) and SMS's... this is really bugging me out.

I thought security in India was always tighter than in the West. This was a new level of security. While on the one hand I feel harassed, in the same way I feel harassed every time I have to take off my shoes at the airport. On the other hand, I realise why the government has taken the stance it is taking. But what amazed me is how well people have taken to it. There are rules and regulations that are now in place that weren't there - or maybe they were - people just weren't adhering to it.

I see drivers with seat belts on. Especially if there is a havaldar around.
My cab drivers would always use headphones if they had to be on their cells.
As I enter Magarpatta city SEZ, there are security blocks on the road. I have to show my id, before the cab is let through
As I enter the office building, there is only one entrance - through security. Everyday I have to have my laptop case and my purse checked. Swipe cards are soooo passe.
As my cab enters the hotel grounds, the security guard would do an undercarriage sweep, and I would have to give him my room number - never mind that he saw me everyday - to let us through.
The cabs are not allowed to stand and wait for passengers in front of buildings.

And yet... and yet...
There is still the incessant honking of traffic. There is no adherence to traffic signals or lane markers.
There is still the same laissez-faire that identifies the regular Indian. There is still the complete lackadaisical approach to things we take for granted - services for instance. My cousin's internet went down a few days ago... and she still has no service. I still dont have a cell phone that I can call out from.. only receive calls... how does that help me call a cab company?
I have a corporate apartment - without a landline ... how am I going to get my conf calls?
There's hundreds of channels on TV, and reality television like MTV roadies, a cross between Road Rules and Survivor!! Pretty sweet! And news channels that are questioning ministers on live television a la CNN/FOX/ , yet the politicians still spout the same old rhetoric - now that the elections are around the corner.
And you still see news like the girl who committed suicide because she was forced to perform a strip tease as part of the 'ragging' ritual.

This India is so different from the one I grew up in. And in so many ways still the same. Why am I expecting everything to still be the same? After all, I've evolved and so has the country. I don't know for better or for worse.

Always, while growing up I felt that Indians did not have the same sense of pride in their country that our previous generations had - the Independence Generation. That the leaders of our country always wanted more for themselves than for their country. Today I felt that Indira Gandhi - whatever her faults - was always driven by what she felt was best for the country - whether it was the right thing or not, she was definitely a leader that thought of the country first.

All I can say is this... One thing made me very very happy. This election - all of a sudden - I see things that I saw just a year ago in America. The 'Get out the vote' and 'youth mobilization' is starting to take center stage. There are PSAs by celebrities and ads on TV and the newspaper. People are being reminded what voting really means. That voting is a right that needs to be exercised and that you are responsible for who you choose to lead you. And I see Indian flags everywhere. Is this a sensibility borne of watching that other democracy across the world, and how proud they are of their country? I saw a cubicle in the office. Two small Indian flags stood in a corner of a desk. How American! and yet, I am so very glad that this has finally come to India. That we've become proud of our flag - we are proud to wave that tricolor. And how sad I am that it had to happen, after I had decided to stop being an Indian legally. But I think by now you've guessed - I'm still an Indian at heart. and proud to be one.